Microneedling has emerged as one of the most popular minimally invasive cosmetic procedures in recent years, offering a compelling alternative to more aggressive treatments for those seeking to improve their skin’s appearance and health. This comprehensive review examines the science behind microneedling, its benefits, limitations, and how it compares to other popular aesthetic procedures.
What is Microneedling?
Microneedling, also known as collagen induction therapy or percutaneous collagen induction, is a cosmetic procedure that involves using fine needles to create thousands of tiny, controlled micro-injuries in the skin’s surface. These microscopic punctures typically range from 0.5 to 2.5 millimeters in depth, depending on the treatment area and desired outcome.
The procedure works on the principle of controlled wound healing. When the skin detects these micro-injuries, it initiates its natural healing response, stimulating the production of collagen and elastin – two essential proteins responsible for skin structure, firmness, and elasticity. This biological response leads to gradual skin improvement over the following weeks and months.
The Science Behind Microneedling
The effectiveness of microneedling lies in its ability to trigger the skin’s wound healing cascade. This process occurs in three distinct phases:
Inflammatory Phase (0-3 days): The initial micro-injuries activate platelets and release growth factors, initiating the healing process and increasing blood flow to the treated area.
Proliferative Phase (3-21 days): Fibroblasts begin producing new collagen and elastin fibers, while new blood vessels form to support tissue repair.
Remodeling Phase (21 days-1 year): The newly formed collagen continues to strengthen and reorganize, resulting in improved skin texture, firmness, and overall appearance.
Key Benefits of Microneedling
1. Improved Skin Texture and Tone
Microneedling effectively addresses various textural concerns, including rough skin, large pores, and uneven skin tone. The collagen stimulation helps create smoother, more refined skin texture over time.
2. Reduction of Fine Lines and Wrinkles
While not as dramatic as surgical procedures, microneedling can significantly reduce the appearance of fine lines and shallow wrinkles, particularly around the eyes, mouth, and forehead.
3. Scar Improvement
One of microneedling’s most notable benefits is its effectiveness in treating acne scars, surgical scars, and other types of atrophic scarring. The procedure helps break down scar tissue while promoting the formation of new, healthy tissue.
4. Enhanced Product Absorption
The micro-channels created during treatment allow topical skincare products to penetrate deeper into the skin, potentially increasing their effectiveness by up to 3000%.
5. Minimal Downtime
Unlike more aggressive procedures, microneedling typically requires only 1-3 days of recovery time, making it suitable for busy lifestyles.
6. Suitable for All Skin Types
Microneedling is generally safe for all skin types and tones, including darker skin that may be at higher risk for hyperpigmentation with other treatments.
Microneedling vs. Other Popular Aesthetic Procedures
Microneedling vs. Botox
Mechanism of Action: Botox works by temporarily paralyzing muscles that cause dynamic wrinkles, while microneedling stimulates collagen production to improve skin quality.
Treatment Areas: Botox is primarily used for expression lines (forehead, crow’s feet, frown lines), while microneedling can address overall skin texture, scars, and fine lines throughout the face and body.
Duration of Results: Botox results last 3-6 months, while microneedling provides gradual, long-lasting improvements that can persist for years with maintenance treatments.
Combination Potential: These treatments complement each other well and are often combined for comprehensive facial rejuvenation.
Microneedling vs. Chemical Peels
Depth of Treatment: Chemical peels work by removing the top layers of skin, while microneedling creates controlled injuries that stimulate deeper collagen production.
Recovery Time: Light chemical peels may have minimal downtime, but deeper peels can require weeks of recovery. Microneedling typically involves 1-3 days of mild redness.
Skin Type Suitability: Microneedling is generally safer for darker skin types that may be prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from chemical peels.
Microneedling vs. Laser Treatments
Heat Factor: Most laser treatments use heat energy, which can be problematic for sensitive skin. Microneedling is a mechanical process without heat generation.
Cost: Microneedling is typically more affordable than laser treatments while offering comparable results for many skin concerns.
Treatment Frequency: Both treatments usually require multiple sessions, but microneedling can often be performed more frequently.
Professional vs. At-Home Microneedling
While at-home dermarollers are available, professional treatments offer several advantages:
- Deeper Penetration: Professional devices can safely reach depths of 2-2.5mm, while at-home devices are limited to 0.25-0.5mm
- Sterile Environment: Professional treatments ensure proper sterilization and reduce infection risk
- Customized Approach: Professionals can adjust needle depth and technique based on individual skin needs
- Combined Treatments: Professional settings allow for the combination of microneedling with other modalities
For those considering professional microneedling there is a great microneedling clinic in Burnaby – Lumera Health Collective .They offer comprehensive microneedling services with experienced practitioners who can customize treatments to individual skin needs and goals.
How Services are Covered
At Lumera Health Collective microneedling services are performed by their licensed and experienced registered acupuncturists. This means that, depending on the individual’s insurance plan, treatments may be eligible for coverage under acupuncture benefits. Clients are encouraged to consult their extended health insurance provider to confirm specific coverage. By offering microneedling through registered acupuncturists, Lumera combines effective skin rejuvenation with the accessibility of holistic healthcare benefits.
Treatment Process and What to Expect
A typical professional microneedling session follows this process:
- Consultation: Assessment of skin concerns and medical history
- Preparation: Cleansing and application of topical numbing cream
- Treatment: Systematic microneedling of the treatment area (30-60 minutes)
- Post-Treatment: Application of soothing serums and sun protection
- Aftercare: Detailed instructions for optimal healing and results
Most patients require 3-6 treatments spaced 4-6 weeks apart for optimal results, with maintenance treatments recommended every 6-12 months.
When Microneedling Should Be Avoided
While generally safe, microneedling is not suitable for everyone. Contraindications include:
Absolute Contraindications
- Active acne breakouts in the treatment area
- Active skin infections (bacterial, viral, or fungal)
- Open wounds or lesions
- Bleeding disorders or use of blood-thinning medications
- Pregnancy or breastfeeding
- History of keloid scarring
- Recent isotretinoin use (within 6-12 months)
Relative Contraindications
- Severe eczema or dermatitis
- Autoimmune conditions affecting the skin
- History of poor wound healing
- Unrealistic expectations about results
Microneedling and Psoriasis: Special Considerations
Psoriasis presents unique challenges for microneedling consideration. The relationship between microneedling and psoriasis is complex and requires careful evaluation:
The Koebner Phenomenon
Psoriasis patients may experience the Koebner phenomenon, where new psoriatic lesions develop at sites of skin trauma. Since microneedling creates controlled micro-injuries, there’s a theoretical risk of triggering new psoriatic plaques in treated areas.
Current Evidence
Limited research exists specifically on microneedling for psoriasis patients. Some small studies suggest potential benefits for psoriatic scarring and skin texture, but the risk-benefit ratio remains unclear.
Recommendations for Psoriasis Patients
- Consult a dermatologist: Always seek approval from a dermatologist familiar with your psoriasis before considering microneedling
- Disease stability: Consider treatment only when psoriasis is well-controlled and stable
- Patch testing: Some practitioners may recommend testing a small area first
- Avoid active lesions: Never perform microneedling over active psoriatic plaques
- Monitor closely: Watch for any signs of new lesion development post-treatment
Many dermatologists recommend avoiding microneedling in psoriasis patients due to the unpredictable nature of the condition and potential for triggering flares.
Potential Side Effects and Risks
While microneedling is generally well-tolerated, potential side effects include:
Common (Expected) Side Effects
- Mild redness and swelling (1-3 days)
- Skin sensitivity
- Minor bleeding during treatment
- Temporary darkening of treated areas
Rare but Serious Complications
- Infection (bacterial, viral, or fungal)
- Scarring
- Hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation
- Allergic reactions to topical products
Maximizing Microneedling Results
To optimize outcomes from microneedling treatments:
Pre-Treatment Preparation
- Avoid sun exposure for 1-2 weeks before treatment
- Discontinue retinoids and exfoliating products 3-7 days prior
- Stay hydrated and maintain good overall skin health
Post-Treatment Care
- Keep skin clean and moisturized
- Avoid makeup for 24 hours
- Use gentle, fragrance-free products
- Apply broad-spectrum sunscreen daily
- Avoid strenuous exercise for 24-48 hours
Long-Term Maintenance
- Follow a consistent skincare routine
- Use products with beneficial ingredients like hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and peptides
- Consider periodic maintenance treatments
- Maintain realistic expectations about gradual improvement
Cost Considerations
Microneedling costs vary significantly based on location, provider, and treatment depth. Professional treatments typically range from $200-$700 per session, with most patients requiring multiple sessions. While the upfront cost may seem significant, many find microneedling to be cost-effective compared to other aesthetic procedures when considering the longevity of results.
The Future of Microneedling
Emerging developments in microneedling technology include:
- Radiofrequency microneedling: Combining microneedling with radiofrequency energy for enhanced results
- Automated devices: Improved precision and consistency in needle penetration
- Combination protocols: Integration with other treatments for synergistic effects
- Customized needle configurations: Tailored approaches for specific skin concerns
Finding the Right Provider
When selecting a microneedling provider, consider:
- Credentials: Look for licensed medical professionals or trained aestheticians
- Experience: Choose providers with extensive microneedling experience
- Facility standards: Ensure proper sterilization and safety protocols
- Consultation quality: Providers should offer thorough consultations and realistic expectations
- Before/after photos: Review results from previous patients with similar concerns
Reputable clinics like Lumera provide comprehensive aesthetic services with experienced practitioners who prioritize patient safety and satisfaction.
Conclusion
Microneedling represents a versatile, minimally invasive option for addressing various skin concerns with minimal downtime and broad applicability across skin types. While not as dramatic as surgical procedures, its ability to stimulate natural collagen production makes it an excellent choice for those seeking gradual, natural-looking improvements in skin texture, tone, and overall quality.
The procedure’s safety profile, combined with its effectiveness for treating acne scars, fine lines, and textural concerns, has made it increasingly popular among both patients and practitioners. However, success with microneedling requires realistic expectations, proper candidate selection, and adherence to pre- and post-treatment protocols.
For individuals with specific conditions like psoriasis, careful consideration and dermatological consultation are essential before proceeding with treatment. While microneedling may offer benefits for some patients with inflammatory skin conditions, the risk of triggering disease flares must be weighed against potential benefits.
As with any cosmetic procedure, thorough research, consultation with qualified professionals, and realistic expectations are key to achieving satisfactory results. When performed by experienced practitioners using proper techniques and protocols, microneedling can be an effective tool in comprehensive skin health and aesthetic improvement plans.
Whether used as a standalone treatment or as part of a multi-modal approach to skin rejuvenation, microneedling continues to evolve as a cornerstone of modern aesthetic medicine, offering hope for those seeking to improve their skin’s health and appearance through minimally invasive means.
